In the modern cosmetics generation, the social and psychological role of make-up products is well known. Makeup products improve the person's appearance, giving them a higher level of self-esteem and self-confidence in interpersonal relationships.
Recently, make-up products have gone from pure decoration products to highly functional systems that guarantee protection from UV rays, pollution, aging, moisturizing, firming and anti-aging efficacy. Hence the evolution of formulation strategy and experimental protocols to support the new features. Due to high-performing and multitasking products, the methodologies used in clinical studies for the effectiveness evaluation of make-up products are highly varied.
Firstly, non-invasive instrumental methods are used, which are based on bioengineering tools to measure the physiological properties of the skin. Instrumental evaluations objectively illustrate the effects of applying cosmetic products on the skin, through numerical data and subsequent statistical validation. These methods are used to evaluate not only the typical properties of make-up such as the long lasting, no-transfer and waterproof effect, but also the multifunctional cosmetic properties, such as moisturizing or anti-aging efficacy. Since the primary purpose of make-up is to modify the chromatic aspects of the skin, digital images represent a useful tool to support efficacy studies. Currently, professional instruments are used for the acquisition and processing of images based on Digital Video Dermoscopy; the latter are equipped with a high-definition video camera to acquire and magnify details of the skin surface under standard conditions of lighting, distance and focus.
To complete the instrumental evaluations, there are the clinical assessments carried out by medical specialists such as dermatologist, ophthalmologist or dentist who evaluates the improvement of skin parameters using scores and scales.
Every one of us carries out a sensory analysis of the products with which it interacts. The outcome increases or decreases the purchasing potential of the cosmetics. The importance of the sensory evaluations as a complement to the effectiveness tests is therefore clear. Sensory analysis is a scientific discipline that identifies, measures and interprets the stimuli evoked and transmitted to the sense organs by the use of a product. We should consider a group of panelists trained to perceive and quantify the sensory stimuli generated by the interaction between the skin and the product. There are various sensory techniques to highlight differences or similarities between products. Finally, the user's opinion is collected by a self-assessment questionnaire to evaluate the perceived performance and the pleasantness of the products.
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